The following information was originally part of my Colonial Wargaming website, but was removed when it got too large for the ISP I was then using. Somehow I never got round to adding it to my new website.
Stage 1: Using a pencil, draw three mountain profiles on to the sheet of thin plywood (see diagram). The large profile will form the back of the mountain, the middle profile will form the upper foothills, and the small profile will form the lower foothills of the mountain. Using the modelling knife, non-slip modelling ruler, and the cutting mat, carefully cut out the three profiles.
Stage 2: The middle profile is placed face down (i.e. with the back of the profile uppermost) on to your modelling area. Using the razor saw, cut the balsa wood into suitable lengths and glue them with the white glue on to the back of the middle profile (see diagram). It is recommended that some form of weight is carefully placed on the whole assembly, and that it is left there until the glue has dried. This should avoid any possibility of the wood warping during the drying process.
Stage 3: The same process is then applied to the small profile.
Stage 4: The large profile is placed face up on to your modelling area. Using white glue, the middle profile is then glued on to the large profile, and then the small profile is glued on to the middle profile (see diagram). Care must be taken to ensure that the bottom edges of each profile are level with one another. It is recommended that some form of weight is carefully placed on the whole assembly, and that it is left there until the glue has dried. This should avoid any possibility of the wood warping during the drying process.
Stage 5: The completed assembly should now be glued with white glue to a base made from the thin plywood left over after the profiles were cut from the original sheet of plywood. It is recommended that some form of weight is carefully placed on the whole assembly, and that it is left there until the glue has dried. This should avoid any possibility of the wood warping during the drying process.
Stage 6: The brown wrapping paper is now torn into small, randomly-shaped pieces (about 3" to 4" [75 mm to 100 mm] along their edges), screwed up, and flattened out. Using slightly watered-down white glue, these are then glued all over the vertical and horizontal surfaces of the mountain. This seals the surface of the wood, strengthens the glued joints, and gives the surface an uneven, rocky appearance. Once the glue has thoroughly dried, any loose bits of paper are trimmed off, and patches of scenic scatter material are glued (using slightly watered-down white glue) over the vertical surfaces of the mountain to enhance the rocky appearance of these surfaces. After the glue has dried, any loose scenic scatter material is brushed off.
Stage 7: The mountain is now ready to be painted and/or flocked.
Stage 1: Using a pencil, draw three mountain profiles on to the sheet of thin plywood (see diagram). The large profile will form the back of the mountain, the middle profile will form the upper foothills, and the small profile will form the lower foothills of the mountain. Using the modelling knife, non-slip modelling ruler, and the cutting mat, carefully cut out the three profiles.
Stage 2: The middle profile is placed face down (i.e. with the back of the profile uppermost) on to your modelling area. Using the razor saw, cut the balsa wood into suitable lengths and glue them with the white glue on to the back of the middle profile (see diagram). It is recommended that some form of weight is carefully placed on the whole assembly, and that it is left there until the glue has dried. This should avoid any possibility of the wood warping during the drying process.
Stage 3: The same process is then applied to the small profile.Stage 4: The large profile is placed face up on to your modelling area. Using white glue, the middle profile is then glued on to the large profile, and then the small profile is glued on to the middle profile (see diagram). Care must be taken to ensure that the bottom edges of each profile are level with one another. It is recommended that some form of weight is carefully placed on the whole assembly, and that it is left there until the glue has dried. This should avoid any possibility of the wood warping during the drying process.
Stage 5: The completed assembly should now be glued with white glue to a base made from the thin plywood left over after the profiles were cut from the original sheet of plywood. It is recommended that some form of weight is carefully placed on the whole assembly, and that it is left there until the glue has dried. This should avoid any possibility of the wood warping during the drying process.Stage 6: The brown wrapping paper is now torn into small, randomly-shaped pieces (about 3" to 4" [75 mm to 100 mm] along their edges), screwed up, and flattened out. Using slightly watered-down white glue, these are then glued all over the vertical and horizontal surfaces of the mountain. This seals the surface of the wood, strengthens the glued joints, and gives the surface an uneven, rocky appearance. Once the glue has thoroughly dried, any loose bits of paper are trimmed off, and patches of scenic scatter material are glued (using slightly watered-down white glue) over the vertical surfaces of the mountain to enhance the rocky appearance of these surfaces. After the glue has dried, any loose scenic scatter material is brushed off.
Stage 7: The mountain is now ready to be painted and/or flocked.
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